Eryn Loeb is a writer and editor in New York. She has written for the Los Angeles Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Time Out New York, and Poets & Writers, among other publications, and writes regularly about nostalgia for The Faster Times.
“The thing to remember is that, since 1957, surfing as something you buy has overshadowed surfing as something you do.” An exclusive excerpt on the origins of surfing from the…